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When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.